Category: Wine Spotting

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Strength and Elegance from Picech wines

Picech Wines

Back in Friuli Venezia Giulia, a region in Italy that is close to my heart, I took a long weekend to catch up with a few long due visits.

One of the (no longer) hidden pearls from the region, are the macerated white wines (aka orange wines). Those have been steadily growing in quality, technique and relevance in the region in this last decade.

Legends like Gravner, opened the way to many other producers to explore the complexities of a white wine produced as red one.

In a nutshell, to produce white macerate wines, the grapes are gently pressed with their skins. Those are left in contact with the must from a few hours to several weeks. This process lends body, length and depth to the wine. The color is built over darker hues of yellow, which can get more intense depending on the maceration time. The process also builds a characteristic range of aromas that includes bees wax, almonds, terracotta and orange peel.

Macerated white wines are one of a kind. I won’t tell you if good or bad, since taste is as individual as fingerprints. However, I would suggest that on the first time you try it, keep an open mind, be slow on judging and preferably, be comfortably sitting.

Meeting Roberto Picech

I started the journey from Trieste up to Collio early in the morning, with Sara, an oenologist friend of mine. It was one of those incredibly hot days from this summer and moving up the hills mildly brought some freshness to the air.

Among the meetings we had scheduled for the day, Picech was one I have been waiting for a while to connect with.

We were received by Roberto Picech, owner and wine maker of Picech wines, and his dog. Both welcoming us warmly, each one in their own ways.

As we began our chat, we head out for a walk around the plots of the pretty vineyard.

Picech started a while back to implement organic practices, which have now reached the whole vineyard. Flowers and grass grow freely along side the vines.

Nature has historically been generous with the region, but the weather has been playing challenging cards lately. Super hot summers are making it trickier to align the maturation curves of the grapes. As a contrast, hail has been hitting hard the Friulano vines for two years. With an attentive eye, we could see sporadic bruises on the branches from the ice, giving clues on the story behind the losses from the last vintages.

Coming back to the house, our canine friend was there waiting for us. She welcomed us back with such happiness that it felt we were away for days, instead of minutes.

A vespa by the door of the location entrance reminded us that were in Italian territory.

We were at home.

Picech Location

Meeting the Picech wines

A particular aspect of wine tasting that I enjoy is the build up of expectations, as you move up in the complexity of the bottles.

Roberto first presented us with his classic wines from the most recent vintage on Friulano, Malvasia and Pinot Bianco.

Still wild and hyper active in the glass, waiting for a bit of aging to calm them down a bit and lend the stability that only time can give. Potent, with a lot of warmth in alcohol, recalling the hot summers in the region. All well incorporated in the body, creating precision in the experience.

As the sun begins to slowly set and we were closing our chat around the classic line, Roberto got things ready for the next act. He slowly stood up, cleaned a bit the table with a piece of cloth, reorganized the glasses and asked whether we could call the main actresses to the stage.

Athena

Athena, was named as of his daughter. An interpretation of Friulano through the point of view of a white maceration. Before going to lengthy descriptions or running technical evaluations in my head, the first sip just brought a smile to my face. The descriptors of Friulano are there but in a different, playful, bulkier and unapologetic way.

Friulano destemmed grapes, macerated for 16 days in large barrels (25 hl), without controlling for temperature and without using selected yeast. After pressing, the wine rests in large barrels for 18 months.

Intense on the nose, with opening on white peaches, acacia flowers, grapefruit, bees wax, green almonds and a minor but pleasant resinated note.

Intense and warm on the palate, the tannins play their role in resonance with the other elements of the structure of the wine. They bring tension and body to sustain a great level of complexity in the structure.

Jelka

Named after his mom, Jelka brings up the roots of the region. A blend of three indigenous grapes from Friuli: Ribolla Gialla, Friulano and Malvasia. The age of the producing vines range from 15 to over 50 years old. You can feel that the age of the vines has landed focus and concentration to the results.

Friulano grapes are destemmed and macerated for 15 days in large barrels, aging for 12 months. Ribolla Gialla and Malvasia are fermented normally and rest for 12 months in tonneau. The blend of the three wines is then brought to concrete vats, and rest there for about 3 years. Jelka, doesn’t reach the shelves before 5 years after the harvest.

Intense and complex on the palate. Balance sustained from the attack of the wine to the fading of persistence. The roundness in the palate is rich, but the acidity makes a statement in the structure bringing brightness, freshness and cleaning to the finish – which was really interesting to notice considering the work in concrete which brings the pH a bit up and the age of 5 years after the harvest. Great depth, which kept on opening by the minute. White flowers, lemon zest, candied orange peel, wet slate, claypot, cedar and cloves.

My definition of elegance in wine.

My thoughts on Picech wines

Talking with Roberto, reassures you of the pleasure of sharing great wine in great company.

Great wines are transparent to the personality of the wine maker. That is a true statement for Picech. Strength, warmth, unapolegetic. Yet, patient, elegant and with complexity and depth to create gravity in the glass.

Picech wines tell about the story of Collio, of Friuli. Looking into the past and creating space for the vibrancy of indigenous grapes, while aiming into the future and constantly iterating on new ways to improve their expression.

Potent wines built to age, and that know how to communicate strength and complexity with elegance.

For me, one of the ambassadors for the style in Friuli.

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Making a wine dream real in Friuli

Tralci di Vita Vine

Back in Friuli Venezia Giulia, in the small town of Ronchis di Torreano, I recently visited the work from Massimo Causero and Maria Chiara at Tralci di Vita vineyards.

Didn’t I know that their great wine was coming paired with a great story.

In his own words, Massimo was born to be a country side man and wine has been in the cards for him since childhood. Recollecting a recent event, one of his primary school teachers came to him remembering a story that had already faded from his mind: a task was given in the class to draw your future profession. Instead of doctor, engineer or architect, Massimo sketched bottles of wine. Each one bearing the name of a teacher on the label.

A few decades later, Massimo would find himself owning and managing a vineyard of his own. That bottle went out of the paper and into the hands of curious wine tasters.

Getting started in the vineyard

Since that drawing in the childhood, there was a long road until Massimo’s first bottle became real.

After obtaining the enotechnical and later the enology diploma, he went through about 10 years’ of practice working with different producers. As the experience gathered in his head and in his hands, the will to use that knowledge to express his own style increased.

At a point in time the stars finally aligned and his preparation met with an opportunity.

In the small town of Torreano, an elder couple invited him to take over the vineyard. He would be able to make it shine once more as the age was putting challenges for the old couple to run the business. Massimo and Maria Chiara decided to cross through that opened door, leaving everything behind, moving to Torreano and grasping their dream.

Philosophy behind Tralci di Vita

Tralci di Vita has about 3 hectares, with 10 varietals distributed partly in a flat area and part on a south facing hill. The production is of nearly 7 thousand bottles altogether.

Part of the production is sold in bulk (sfuso) and part in bottles. The first is aimed at the retention of long time clients who were buying wine at the property for years, from the previous owner. The bottled portion is where Massimo and Maria Chiara began to explore the potential of the land, producing wines from selected parcels and evaluating the results. It’s a simple but straight forward approach to segmenting the clients and keeping the cash flow under control.

The philosophy of the production highlights the integrity of the grape. The work is concentrated in the vines so that minimum intervention is required in the cellar. Customized pruning techniques, adapted to each varietal, help the vines give their best into the grapes.

Tralci di Vita Bottle

Tasting Impressions

That philosophy is reflected in their style. The wines are delicate in the aroma and in the palate. The acidity is high, yet balanced with the structure, reflecting the colder weather of the area. Tannins are active but round, bringing life to the wine without being aggressive. The finishings are elegant but at the same time rustic. The signature ending notes of wild berries, slate and moist soil reminds you where the vines are located, and how the area smells like.

Some of their wines caught a bit more my attention. The Sauvignon Blanc, brings delicate white flowers and exotic fruit to the aromas despite the moderate to cold climate area. The Merlot is rich and boasts beautiful black cherries, dark chocolate, liquorice and the signature rustic closing of the Tralci di Vita vineyard.

Their Schiopettino was a great finding. Balanced from the start, presenting a wide range of spices in the palate and smoky tones, with cigar box and a bit of leather. This autoctonous grape had a strong decline during the late 19th and 20th centuries, it was saved from extinction in the 1970s and is now regaining the place among the local varietals it once had. That’s a similar story shared by Tazzelenghe, another jewel from the region.

According to Massimo, 10 years ago would be unthinkable to growth red grapes in the zone, especially thick skin ones such as Merlot. Climate change has created a warm pocket in the zone, opening for a potential that didn’t exist before.

Coming next to Tralci di Vita

Even if the vines are far from being young, ranging from 50 to 100 years old, it was actually the first vintage of Massimo and Maria Chiara at Tralci di Vita.

Their results are focused and makes me curious about what waits in the bottles in the next vintages.

Instead of fixing what is not working, the goal is to understand what are the strengths of the vineyard and excel on what is already great.

Having 10 grape varieties is a challenge to manage, especially during harvest. The different maturation times spreads the efforts between vineyard and the cellar for too long. The season last year went through 12 September until 28th October.

As the strengths from Tralci di Vita become transparent, the focus on quality would naturally impact their current segmentation. That would lead to an eventual reduction on sales of bulk wines and a gradual shift to the bottled selection.

Massimo and Maria Chiara said that their vision was to give people something of their own. A piece of their dedication, their dream, their work, their culture, a piece of their life… and that’s how the name “Tralci di Vita” came about.

By the time of this post, their website was still under construction. The way to reach out to them for a visit and for purchasing wine was either by email ([email protected]) or their Facebook page.

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Going Organic in Cartizze

In a period in which Prosecco sales are soaring and their volume surpasses the one of Champagne, the world turn their eyes to Valdobbiadene. The heart of Prosecco production.

Crowning the pyramid of the Prosecco hierarchy we find Cartizze.

Cartizze, the Prosecco Grand Cru?

Cartizze is a hilly area of about 107 hectares, just outside Valdobbiadene. The microclimate in this valley creates a special condition that helps creating this particular style of Prosecco.

The hills face south, keeping the vines exposed to the sun for the whole day without having one vine casting shadow over another. This leads to better maturation and higher sugar levels than in any other Prosecco production area.

The valley also creates a sort of air tunnel, keeping the vines ventilated. This constant air flow facilitates adoption of sustainable practices, since the climate helps keeping fungal diseases away.

The soil is also a key feature in this production area. The mix of sand and layers of clay facilitate drainage, while keeping the right amount of moist on the roots. The grapes don’t “suffer” as much as in other neighboring areas, which is often desired, but evolve to healthy fruits.

The combination of these aspects gives the Prosecco from Cartizze differentiated levels of complexity, depth and elegance.

The Winemaker

On a recent trip to the region I connected with Pietro De Conti, from Pdc (similarity between the acronym for his name and the vineyard label is not a coincidence).

After travelling the world and spending a fair time in Australia, Pietro came back to his origins in the family business. His vision is to evolve the expression of glera (key grape in the production of Prosecco), specialize in Cartizze only and narrow the gap between the producer and the final consumer.

A firm believer in the concept of the terroir in the region (a good place to be if we are talking about Cartizze) Pdc has 100% glera in their Prosecco. Technically, the DOCG demands a minimum of 85% of glera in Prosecco. The remaining 15% is generally a blend with Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco, among others.

The harvest here begins ahead of time compared to most grapes. For sparkling wine production, the required levels of acidity are pretty high, which leads to picking the grapes at early ripening stages. All the grapes are hand-picked and the 10 people team completes the harvest in just a bit over 4 hours. The work starts really early in the morning in order to prevent the fermentation from kicking off ahead of time under the sun. The short distances to be covered allow the grapes to leave the vines and reach the pressing in less than an hour.

By the figures above you can imagine already that the production is not that large. They top 10 thousand bottles a year only, between their Brut and the Dry styles.

 

Challenges of going Organic in Cartizze

While Valdobbiadene has gained media spotlights with their soaring production, there is a shadow lingering over this success. It’s been years since several parties have been calling attention to the heavy use of synthetic pesticides in the region. 

It’s a tough change to make when the soil has got already addicted to the long-term use of such chemicals.

Europe has been looking for a role model to follow on how to transition to more sustainable practices, and it seems they are slowly rising.

Bordeaux saw several cases of soil deterioration and intoxication of workers in the vineyards. After a lot of pressure from entities and good will from associations, actions came into play. At the core of the right bank, Saint-Émilion passed a measurement mandating sustainable farming in the region, starting with the 2019 vintage. That will impact nearly 1000 wine growers alone.
While a mandate doesn’t come in other regions, organic practices depend on patience and risk tolerance of a few producers.Pdc is part of this selected few. Pietro believes in the natural health of the soil for the plants to shine. Starting with the 2019 vintage, Pdc will have the organic certification stamped on their wine labels.

That is an epic achievement, considering the efforts to remain organic in the region. Cooperation with neighboring producers is needed so that your own vines are not contaminated by their spraying. Another producer in Valdobbiadene explained to me that despite adopting organic practices, up to 20% of his production cannot be eligible to be bottled as organic. The vines on his property that are too close to his neighbors, that are non-organic producers, often get contaminated. Often happens that the concentration of chemicals on these vines go over the maximum levels allowed to comply as organic.

Pdc wines

Pietro brought home ideas on customer care learned abroad. You clearly notice a differentiated approach at the modern tasting room, personalized tasting materials, communication with final consumers and the full use of digital content in their premises.

PdC is also trying to provide orientation to visitors in the region. Extending the experience from the vineyard to restaurant recommendations, cultural activities and a bit of history from the area.

Their 100% glera sparkling wines come in two styles: Cartizze Brut and Dry.

Both with beautiful and persistent perlage, the range of aromas is wide enough to be entertaining but straight enough to keep it fun and not too serious. Summery opening with acacia flowers, white peaches, pear, grapefruit and some minor herbal notes with sage and thyme. Long finish with lemon zest, bitter almonds and a bit of wet slate adding minerality to the palate.

Something close to my heart is the view of having the wine as an experience. The more ingrained the story gets into the wine, more meaning you see on each sip.

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Sharing a bottle… or two

I am starting off Wine Spotter posts with a note from the heart… wine has been a reason for me to gather friends around the table for a fair while. I can actually recall most of the bottles we drank by the stories we shared. As most of our memories are sewed in our minds by the emotions we attach to it, so does wine!

Savoring a glass of wine is a door we open for a trip right there, without leaving our seat. Across the basket of aromas floating out of the glass, we might find the right one that would take you back… to the smell of freshly cut grass from my childhood back yard, or mum’s blueberry pie that used to lie on the window to cool down, or the smell of freshly baked croissants from the bakery on my way to work, or the scent of the room in a trip to Marrakesh, peeled mandarins from my grandpa’s house we used to eat by the porch, the smell of the rain soaking the asphalt. It can be a trip far in the past or just a way to be present, enjoying the moment sharing a bottle in good company. Two things have that effect in my opinion: wine and music. They can do wonders when well combined.

Each bottle tells a story. Some short and giggly, others so long and introspective that might ask for an extra attention for us to connect with. 

I am kicking off Wine Spotter for the wine curious people, like myself. For those looking at the next opportunity to try new wine styles,  or just to have their comfort glass out of a curated list of suggestions. For the travelers, who seek excitement across exotic countries or by popping open a new bottle.

I hope you enjoy the site and that it connects you to memorable wine experiences.